Tara's Diary - Part 2

Part 1

It was a dark pre dawn start from Tiblisi in order to ensure our place on the ferry across the Caspian Sea.. The pressure was on as the next ferry wasn’t until a week’s time. We bounced along pot holed roads swerving to avoid the herds of cows, sheep and pigs that lined the roads. Enveloped in a pre -dawn mist, the air grew cooler as we ascended into the Georgian hills and into tea plantation territory. We crossed into Azerbaijan with no problems, heading to Baku, not daring to stop lest we missed the sacred ferry.

Prepared for the worst we arrived laden with provisions and while waiting to board enjoyed some warm bread and melted cheese which Jim had been cooking under the bonnet of his Packard car.

Only AA chosen few had the honour of a basic cabin with beds for our 20-hour crossing, the rest of us were to slum it in the corridors in sleeping bags. To cheer themselves, Picas and a few others held a celebratory drinks party for his birthday, tucking into some local caviar and champagne. I over heard that a backhander bought with it the possibility of a cabin, so with a fistful of dollars, I began my mission. I was offered one within minutes, as this exchange could provide a crewmember with a month’s salary. For $25 (after some hard bargaining), we made ourselves at home feeling extremely fortunate and relieved at the increased possibility of sleep after such a long day. We had not however accounted for Pat’s snoring antics, sounding like he had swallowed 50 pigs (which he could well have done during the ferry dinner).

We arrived four hours later than anticipated, as during the night one of the two engines had cut out, leaving us travelling towards Turkmenistan at a snail’s pace.

A long wait at the customs border ensued, giving us a chance for a picnic of provisions, whilst our tyres were sprayed with disinfectant, by a Turkmen Mrs Mop look alike. Nosy officials peered incredulously at the line of vintage cars some with equally vintage owners.

We drove on and on through desert past barren scrub vegetation, framed by silhouetted mountains standing hazily in the distance. The dusty air fiercely hot, it was no wonder that neither man nor beast was to be seen for miles until an oasis would spring into view accompanied by a petrol pump and a few houses with street stalls selling warm fizzy drinks and sweets. We stopped to fill up with petrol whenever possible as there was no guarantee of a steady supply en route. Kelly and I went in search of the WC shack down a dusty path, while Bill (Kelly’s father) filled the car We had just prepared ourselves for the stench and possible creatures lurking within, when we heard Bill calling Kelly’s name, wondering where we had got to and frantically looking in all directions. What does he want now sighed Kelly, fed up with the constant demands of her father. We turned aqround to see a fountain of petrol extending from Bill’s hand, spewing into the air obliviously dousing himself from head to foot,, while the petrol attendant desperately tried to alert him of his action. Kelly and I tried to point out the fountain of petrol, unable to speak as we choked on our laughter.

We drove on into the night bumpily, unable to avoid the obscured potholes. We passes the boys, with Pat standing up in his seat peering onto the road while, with the bumper half hanging off, Inigo drove slowly. My assumption that Pat was acting as human headlights, in the absence of their own was incorrect as I learnt that their windscreen wipers had fallen off and they were now searching for them!

I am now in Kyrgystan and have landed a cushy ride in the landcruiser with the film crew! To be continued........